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TIG tungsten electrodes: colors, sizes, and grinding

What the color bands mean, which electrode suits which job, how to size it to the current, and how to grind a point that steers the arc where you aim it.

Updated September 9, 20267 min read

The tungsten is the smallest part of a TIG setup and the one that decides most about how the arc behaves. Pick the wrong one and it will not start reliably, will not hold a point, or will drop into the weld pool. Pick the right one and grind it badly, and the arc will point somewhere other than where the torch does.

What the colors mean

Tungsten on its own works, but adding a small percentage of a metal oxide improves how the electrode emits electrons — it starts more easily, runs cooler at the tip, and lasts longer. The color band on the end says which oxide was added.

Band Designation Oxide Where it belongs
Green EWP / WP none — pure tungsten AC on older transformer machines; balls readily
Red EWTh-2 / WT20 2% thorium Long the DC standard; radioactive dust when ground
Gold EWLa-1.5 / WL15 1.5% lanthanum Good all-rounder, AC and DC
Blue EWLa-2 / WL20 2% lanthanum The modern default: AC and DC, holds a point
Orange or grey EWCe-2 / WC20 2% cerium Excellent low-current starting, AC and DC
Brown EWZr-1 / WZ8 zirconium Specifically for AC; forms a stable ball, resists spitting

One caution about the colors. AWS A5.12 and ISO 6848 do not agree on every band, and some suppliers use their own for proprietary rare-earth blends. The printed designation — WL20, EWLa-2 — is the identifier that does not change. Read it before trusting the paint.

Which one to actually buy

For a shop with a modern inverter and a mix of work, 2% lanthanated (blue) is the single most useful electrode. It runs on AC and DC, starts at low current, keeps a ground point instead of balling up, carries current comparable to thoriated, and contains nothing radioactive.

Ceriated is the other sound all-rounder, and it is better than lanthanated at very low amperage — thin sheet, delicate repair, orbital heads running small currents.

Thoriated (red) still performs well on DC and is still widely stocked. The objection is not performance but the grinding dust: thorium-232 is radioactive, and grinding produces respirable particles. If it is in use, grind with extraction, never on an open bench wheel shared with other work.

Pure tungsten (green) and zirconiated (brown) belong to AC on transformer machines, where the electrode is meant to form and hold a ball. On an inverter with balance control they are rarely the best choice.

Sizing to the current

An electrode too large for the current gives an unstable arc that wanders around the tip. Too small, and the tip overheats, erodes and eventually drops into the pool.

Diameter DC electrode negative AC
1.0 mm up to ~80 A up to ~55 A
1.6 mm up to ~145 A up to ~100 A
2.4 mm up to ~250 A up to ~160 A
3.2 mm up to ~400 A up to ~250 A

The AC column is lower throughout because the electrode-positive half of each cycle heats the tip. That is also why AC work usually calls for one size up from what the same current would need on DC.

Treat these as typical ranges. Manufacturers publish their own figures, and they vary with the oxide, the gas and how far the electrode sticks out of the cup.

Grinding: the part that gets skipped

Grind lengthwise, along the axis of the electrode. This is the single most consequential detail on this page. The current follows the grinding marks: ground across the electrode, the arc wanders sideways and no amount of torch technique corrects it. Ground along it, the arc goes where the point aims.

Taper length: roughly two to two and a half times the diameter. Longer tapers focus the arc more tightly and suit thin material and low current; shorter, blunter tapers carry more current and last longer.

Leave a small flat on the tip. A needle point looks right and disappears in seconds at working current — the tip melts and goes into the weld. A truncated tip, a few tenths of a millimeter across, is what survives.

Keep a wheel for tungsten only. A wheel that has touched steel will embed iron in the electrode, which contaminates the weld. A diamond wheel or a dedicated tungsten grinder is worth the money in a shop that welds stainless or aluminum.

When you dip it, stop. Touching the pool contaminates the tungsten instantly. The contaminated end has to be broken off and reground — grinding it back without removing the contaminated material just spreads it.

Stick-out and cup

The electrode should extend beyond the cup by roughly its own diameter for a butt joint, and up to about twice that for a fillet where access demands it. Further out than the shielding envelope reaches, and the tip oxidizes — visible afterwards as a dull, discolored electrode.

A gas lens extends the usable stick-out considerably by turning turbulent flow into a smooth column. On work with awkward access it is the difference between reaching the joint and shielding it properly.

What TIP TIG uses

Nothing special — and that is deliberate. TIP TIG runs a conventional TIG torch on a conventional TIG power source, so the electrode, the collet, the cup and the gas are what the shop already stocks. What is added is the wire: a separate feeder delivers filler that has been heated close to melting point, mechanically oscillated into the pool.

That matters for consumables in one respect. Because the arc does not have to melt cold filler, it works less hard for the same deposit — and an electrode that runs cooler holds its ground point longer. The process page covers how the hot wire side works.

In short

Blue (2% lanthanated) covers most work on a modern machine; ceriated is better at very low current; thoriated performs but brings a dust hazard you do not need. Read the printed designation rather than trusting the paint, since AWS and ISO colors differ. Size the electrode to the current, and one size up for AC. And grind along the axis with a small flat on the tip — that single habit fixes more arc problems than any setting on the machine.

Common questions

What do the colors on tungsten electrodes mean?
The band identifies the oxide added to the tungsten, which changes how the electrode starts, how much current it carries, and how long it lasts. Green is pure tungsten, red is 2% thoriated, gold is 1.5% lanthanated, blue is 2% lanthanated, brown is zirconiated. Check the printed designation as well as the band — AWS and ISO do not agree on every color, so WL20 or EWLa-2 is the reliable identifier.
Which tungsten should I use for TIG welding?
For most work on a modern inverter, 2% lanthanated (blue) is the best single choice: it runs AC and DC, starts reliably, holds a ground point, and is not radioactive. Ceriated is the other good all-rounder, especially at low current. Thoriated still performs well on DC but contains a radioactive oxide, which makes the grinding dust a hazard worth avoiding.
Is thoriated tungsten dangerous?
The electrode in your hand is not the problem; the grinding dust is. Thorium-232 is radioactive, and grinding produces fine particles that can be inhaled. If thoriated electrodes are in use, grind with extraction, do not grind them on an open bench wheel, and keep the dust out of the shop air. Lanthanated and ceriated electrodes perform comparably and avoid the question entirely.
How do you sharpen a tungsten electrode?
Lengthwise, along the axis — never across it. Cross-ground marks make the arc wander sideways, because the current follows the grinding grooves. Grind a taper roughly two to two-and-a-half times the electrode diameter, and put a small flat on the tip: a needle point erodes away in seconds at working current. Use a wheel kept for tungsten only.
What size tungsten for what amperage?
Roughly: 1.6 mm up to about 145 A, 2.4 mm up to about 250 A, 3.2 mm up to about 400 A on DC electrode negative. On AC the same electrode carries appreciably less, because the positive half-cycle heats the tip. Too large an electrode at low current gives an unstable, wandering arc; too small at high current melts the tip into the weld.
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